You say tomato, I say tom-ah-to

If you are like me, your tomatoes are now off the vine. So now what is there to do with that fridge drawer full of tomatoes? The obvious choice is tomato sauce. Keep in mind, making a homemade tomato sauce from fresh tomatoes takes a bit of effort. The economic benefits versus commercial store bought are negligible, but the qualitative benefits are immense. However, the tomato is a remarkably versatile fruit that can be become the star of a seasonal salad or an intensely flavourful side dish such as my recipe for roasted tomatoes.

MAMA TERESA’S TOMATO SAUCE

Makes three large jars.

5 lb plum tomatoes*, peeled, crushed, or blended

2 tbsp olive oil

1 carrot, peeled, diced

1 rib celery, peeled, diced 1 small onion, peeled, diced 2 tbsp milk**

2 tbsp tomato paste

1 jar strained tomatoes (optional)***

DIRECTIONS

Place a large pot over medium-low heat. Add the olive oil, carrots, celery and onion. Sweat until the vegetables are soft and the onions translucent (12 to 15 minutes). Raise heat to medium. Add milk. Once milk has evaporated, add the tomatoes, tomato paste and strained tomatoes (optional). Bring to a quick boil and then reduce to a simmer. Season generously with salt. Simmer for 90 minutes. You can pass the sauce through a food mill or blender at the end or simply leave in its rustic form.

*Score tomatoes with an x, being sure only to cut the skin. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Place tomatoes in batches into the boiling water for 45 seconds. Remove and place in an ice bath to cool. Once cool peel off the skins. Repeat until all the tomatoes are peeled. Roughly chop the potatoes or blend.

**Adding milk helps break down the onions. As for no garlic, my mama Teresa, who is actually just an older friend always says, “The onions and the garlic don’t talk.”

***Home grown plum tomatoes sometimes lack.

Pasta Picks: As for the right pasta to serve with a homemade tomato sauce, my philosophy is that the simpler and lighter the sauce, the finer the pasta. Hence, I serve spaghettini with oilbased sauces, spaghetti and linguine with simple tomato sauces and thicker noodles such as tagliatelle and pappardelle with ragu (typically made with braised meat and tomato) sauces. Where’s the garlic in sauce?

DISH IT OUT

CHERRY TOMATO SALAD

Four to six servings.

INGREDIENTS

6 cups mixed cherry or grape tomatoes, halved

1 cup basil leaves torn

1 cup queso fresco, crumbled 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 lemon, juice

Pinch salt

Pinch pepper

DIRECTIONS

Place tomatoes, basil, cheese, olive oil and lemon juice in a bowl. Toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper.

THE BEST TOMATO SALAD

Four to six servings.

INGREDIENTS

4 beefsteak tomatoes, cut into 8 wedges

1 small red onion, finely sliced 3 tbsp capers

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup red wine vinegar

Sea salt

Freshly cracked pepper

DIRECTIONS

Place wedges of beefsteak tomatoes on a platter. Top with red onions and capers. Drizzle with olive oil and red wine vinegar. Season generously with salt and peppers.

ROAST TOMATOES

Six servings.

Prep time: Less than 30 minutes

Total time: Less than 30 minutes

INGREDIENTS

3 beef steak tomatoes, core removed, halved

Pinch sea salt

2 tbsp olive oil

3 tbsp parsley, chopped

DIRECTIONS

Season tomato halves with sea salt and drizzle with remaining olive oil. Place a cast iron pan over medium-high heat. Sear tomato halves, seed side down, until a little charred. Transfer tomatoes to a roasting pan and drizzle with olive oil. Cover with aluminum foil. Roast in oven preheated to 400°F for 8 to 10 minutes. Before serving, top the tomatoes with a sprinkle of chopped parsley.

CHEESE STUFFED RAVIOLI WITH FIERY CHERRY TOMATOES

INGREDIENTS

1 lb fresh egg pasta dough

250 g Parmigiano-reggiano or Grana Padano

1-1/4 cups milk

1 lb cherry tomatoes, halved 1 clove garlic

1 tsp dried chili pepper flakes Pinch salt

1/4 cup basil, torn

4 to 6 tbsp olive oil, grated, to serve

DIRECTIONS

Soak cheese in milk overnight. The next, day strain the cheese and milk mixture. Keep the milk and put the cheese in blender. Boil the milk and then add it to the blender. Puree the milk and cheese combination. Refrigerate for two hours before use. Toss tomatoes with garlic, chilies, salt, basil and olive oil. Roll pasta or pass through a pasta machine until very thin. Cut the pasta into small circles. Put a small spoonful of the cooled cheese mixture into the center of dough. Wet edge of pasta lightly with water. Place second circle on top of first and seal. Continue until all the dough and cheese mixture is used. Heat the tomatoes in a pan over medium-high heat. At the same time, cook pasta in boiling salted water. To serve place ravioli on plate and top with cherry tomatoes. Garnish with fresh basil.

Mark Dewolf is currently the creative director of food and drink at the Saltwire Network, director of marketing and communications of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI) and pastpresident of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS). He enjoys drinking, eating, writing and talking about wine, beer and food.